The World is Burning

by Chad Evans

The world may be burning but it is also flooding with textile waste. As the fashion cycle becomes more compressed due to consumers' increasingly short attention spans and the visibility provided by social media, clothing is being thrown away faster than ever before. The average American discards about 80 pounds of clothing per year and the consumption of new clothing has risen 400% in the past two decades alone. Not only does discarded clothing take up a lot of space in our planet’s landfills, but also the resources to replace all of this clothing is dwindling.

Hyperconsumption of resources is the current industry standard but, it does not have to stay that way. More sustainable models and supply chains already exist in what is known collectively as sustainable fashion. Sustainable fashion reduces the harmful emissions and byproducts from the textile industry and produces long-lasting garments made from materials that mitigate their environmental impacts. In the midst of ecological degradation, it is imperative that sustainable fashion does not remain a trend in itself, but become an industry norm.

As with most environmental figures, the numbers on clothing waste and pollution are alarming and complex. The industry cannot feasibly continue to operate with the same methods it currently operates. Taken collectively, textiles make up the second most pollutive industry in the world, surpassed only by crude oil. The textile industry is estimated to contribute 20% of the world's industrial water pollution. 1.3 billion gallons of water are consumed to dye fabric. 2,700 liters of water are needed to make a single cotton t-shirt--just under the amount of water required to fill about 34 standard bathtubs.

Most garments made today use synthetic or cotton fibers, which are both environmentally detrimental in their own right. Nearly all cotton used in clothing is genetically modified and riddled with pesticides that are easily absorbed into the skin. Thousands of chemicals go into the production of synthetic fibers, many of which are harmful to human health, particularly the endocrine system. The chemicals dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid are known for their toxicity. When washed, synthetic fabrics release microfibers that will eventually reach rivers, lakes, and oceans; their plasticity makes them difficult to biodegrade, resulting in widespread water pollution and consumption by aquatic life. The most problematic aspect of using synthetic fibers is that many are derived from fossil fuels, such as coal, oil, and natural gas.

But, there is hope. The damage has reached a breaking point that has inspired a new movement among established and emerging fashion labels alike. Sustainable solutions to traditional materials are being conceived and implemented on a mass scale. Genetically modified cotton fibers are now replaced with organic varieties. Recycled materials are made into new garments to avoid the destructive process of creating new fabric. Polyester can be produced with plastic from recycled water bottles. High quality artificial leather is a legitimate substitute for natural leather.

The sustainable fashion movement is here, seeking to instill new conventions for an industry that notoriously functions around precedent. It has goals beyond its ecological mission. Echoing the fair trade movement in agriculture, consumers are calling for ethical improvements. Demands include fair treatment and compensation of textile laborers, many of whom are women from developing countries. In addition, it calls for the proper treatment of animals whose skins and furs constitute the base of many products industry-wide. Sustainable fashion is anything but static, and often finds itself evolving to sail the prevailing winds of social justice.

Stella McCartney is the trailblazer of environmentally-conscious fashion. The English designer has been at the forefront of sustainability in apparel since the inception of her eponymous label in 2001, a time when sustainable fashion was barely part of the conversation. In the spirit of her father, Paul McCartney, Stella McCartney has been extremely vocal in her intent to establish a new norm for the fashion industry. Her label identifies sustainability as part of its mission statement and is exceptionally transparent about the origins of their materials.

In particular, McCartney is renowned for her use of vegan leather in all garments and accessories. A lifelong animal activist, McCarntney has criticized the fashion industry's use of animal products both for their ecological and ethical problems. Her handbags are constructed from a vegan leather of such high quality, many consumers are unable to tell the difference. These bags are usually appropriately accented with hardware made of a sustainable combination of aluminum and stainless steel.

McCartney has recently made waves for the introduction of her offshoot line of faux fur goods, Fur Free Fur. Like it’s vegan leather counterpart, the fur is shockingly similar to the real thing. After acknowledging faux fur’s difficulty to biodegrade, the house has since introduced pieces made with a new plant-based version. Unveiled backstage at her recent Spring Summer 2020 runway show in Paris, the material is called Koba and is made with 37% plant materials. Leaving no uncertainty about her agenda, the designer wishes to set an industry standard for high-quality, never-genuine fur.

Nearly every detail of her business is considered with sustainability and ethics in mind. Every material, no matter how little its usage, can be reworked to reduce its harmfulness on the environment. For example, McCartney recently introduced a line of eyewear crafted from bio-acetate, which is derived from wood pulp, avoiding the fossil fuels required to make most plastics. The line was introduced with a campy campaign video that posed models against the backdrop of dinosaur statues in a statement against fossil fuels.

What might be most remarkable about Stella McCartney is her ability to integrate sustainability efforts into a brand that subtly uses ecologically responsible materials without making them the focus of her aesthetic. McCartney's designs are not earthy or bohemian in the way one might expect a sustainable brand to be. Instead, her collections are bold, energetic, and colorful, effortlessly combining her tradition of British menswear with a sophisticated feminine touch. Her clothes can be sporty and playful, often shown on the runway against invigorating electronic soundtracks. It is this dedication to design itself that sets apart Stella McCartney. No longer do sustainable brands have to exist exclusively on the notion that they are sustainable by producing crunchy looking designs to reinforce this message.

A brand can be sustainable and fashion-forward. Labels today can establish their image on the basis of their design principles, while advertising their sustainability as simply an expected standard. Reformation is a prime example of this model, making itself known for its aesthetic first and its sustainability second. A self-described “cool girl brand,” Reformation’s repackaging of ethical and sustainable fashion are directly inspired by the precedent set by Stella McCartney. And other brands are following suit; examples include footwear label Veja and basics line Everlane.

The environment has undoubtedly suffered from the unquenchable consumption of fashion. But, this isn’t to say the damage can’t be mitigated. With the development of sustainable fashion, an industry that employs much of the world can thrive under ethical practices that protect both the environment and its enormous pool of workers. Stella McCartney may be a face of the movement, but her influence is not limited to her luxury niche. Instead, labels and consumers alike should remember that sustainability can be both accessible and chic, and strive to make it an industry standard.