Going Yards for Goyard
Hip-Hop’s Favorite Bag At NYU
by Kaamya Krishnan
Goyard’s iconic hand-painted monogram and logo | Photo: Grailed
As you walk down the streets of Manhattan, you can see all types of bags in your view. On the NYU campus, backpacks, tote bags, purses, and crossbodies call attention to bags as functional and fashionable accessories. Perhaps you’ve noticed one type of bag in particular that stands out from the rest: the Goyard.
Goyard bags are instantly recognizable yet remain elusive in nature. Its subtle design embodies an interlocking pattern and a tiny, nearly hidden brand logo which sets it apart from classic logos that shout at you from across the street.
Founded in 1792 in Paris, Maison Goyard is a luxurious leather goods maker. Since the creation of the brand, it has taken off among its wealthy demographic. Having a Goyard bag is said to be one of the ultimate signs of luxury and a “holy grail for fashion lovers” (but perhaps fashion elitism is a more appropriate way of looking at it). Before the 230-year-old bag hit the tables of Bobst Library, it became a contemporary fashion staple within hip-hop music and culture.
The first mention of Goyard in any hip-hop song was confirmed by Genius to be in Pharrell’s “It Was a Great Day” with the lyric “Go yard, I rock Goyard, ‘What’s that?’ Oh god.” Other rappers in the early 2000s such as Kanye West and Lupe Fiasco, and more recently notable artists such as 21 Savage, Lil Uzi Vert, and A$AP Rocky, have dropped the Goyard name enough times in their verses that it’s become noticeable. Whether it’s duffels, trunks, bags, belts, or wallets, any and everything Goyard is fair game. Popular Goyard name-drops in music include 21 Savage’s “Rap Saved Me” and Gunna’s “Drip or Drown '' which mention Goyard within the first lines of their songs. Global style icon and self-proclaimed fashion killa A$AP Rocky rarely shies away from mentioning his favorite brands in his music, Goyard showing up in many of his verses and songs like “Canal St,” “A$AP Forever ft. Moby,” and “Pretty Flacko,” to name just a few. Based on their lyrics, these artists reference Goyard bags as a way to hold multiple racks of money, demonstrating that they are part of this specific high-luxury demographic.
A$AP Rocky carrying his blue Goyard bag in NYC | Photo: GQ
The modern-day vision of the Goyard as a status symbol in fashion has been particularly broadened through rap music, in what I find to be an unlikely duality between how we see Goyard products being used on a college campus. Unlike the more popular Louis Vuitton, Hermés Birkin, and even Prada bags, Goyard is the only bag I’ve witnessed on a college campus that is also mentioned so often in pop culture.
Although the rappers in these songs refer to Goyard bags as symbols of wealth, I doubt any artists who name-drop the Goyard are using their bags as often as the average NYU student. It’s hard to miss a Goyard on campus these days, and even if you can’t identify the brand, students can be seen wearing and accessorizing different colored Goyard totes for their school and daily wear.
Goyards as seen on campus | Photos: Ava Filan, Kaamya Krishnan
So how does such a recognizable bag remain so elusive and sought after? Maison Goyard does not disclose the price of its bags on its website nor over the phone when you call the store, which filters out any non-serious consumer and keeps its clientele within a certain class. The brand didn’t even start an Instagram account until 2016 and to this day refuses big brand advertisements and marketing campaigns. Goyard's appeal is rooted in its mystery.
Your only way of acquiring a Goyard bag is at one of the few brick-and-mortar stores in the world (the only New York City location can be found on the Upper East Side). The Goyard Saint Louis PM Tote is one of the more popular items from the brand and retails about $1,600 as of 2023. Additionally, after denying an official interview with Racked magazine, the brand mentioned that it “firmly believes in values such as exclusivity and discretion” and that speaking to the press is something that it will never do. Since many questions about the brand are left unanswered, customers will have to be willing to see for themselves.
This exclusivity can make one wonder if the bag is worth the price. Seeing these bags around school also leads me to question the bag's functionality. The Goyard bag most frequently sported on campus— the Goyard Saint Louis PM Tote— is spacious and open with one inner pouch and no zippers. It operates as any normal canvas tote bag (except it’s obviously more durable), so a Goyard bag is about personal taste over function.
The inside of a Goyard Saint Louis tote bag | Photo: Cocoon Club
Maison Goyard’s entire brand lies on a foundation built by the “if you know, you know” principle. My first encounters with Goyard were through music before I saw a Goyard bag in person. If you don’t live in a place where Goyard’s clientele are present, it’s unlikely you would hear about it otherwise. A representative for the fashion house spoke to a Hypebeast representative in 2017 and mentioned, "We believe that whispering softly in someone's ears is not only more elegant, but also much more efficient than screaming at the top of one's lungs."
It’s a fascinating contrast with how we see other luxury fashion houses scrambling to keep up with the changing world of fashion PR and marketing, especially on social media. Maison Goyard stands out from the rest, its elusiveness and grace in an over-consuming society attracting the attention of those who really care (and can afford) their products, whether it be a student, rapper, or anyone in between.